No ankle movement... no barrel crouches. I nabbed this one at g-land a few weeks back, and currently I’m sitting in a hospital, post-op ankle surgery. My shred skills, or complete lack thereof, lead to a skateboard stack that basically broke the medial mallelolus (inner ankle bone) off the tibia (shin bone). They screwed that bit back in place. I could have opted to not have surgery, but that bit of bone was displaced downward. It was basically decreasing the space in my ankle joint. Less joint space = less range of motion. Less range of motion in an ankle makes a lot of the positions we find ourselves in while surfing rather difficult. If an ankle is locked up, you have to move excessively through a knee joint, and that can be pretty detrimental when it’s the rear leg (my ankle break was my rear leg). If you can’t compress downwards, then you have to poo man 💩 stance forwards, offsetting gravity, or excessively rotate a knee (think extreme Craig Ando). Excessive rotation in a knee will tear things. Poo stances don’t look rad, and they’re not efficient either. Surfing is an expression of your body. It is “holistic”. Mental, physical, emotional. It all influences life and surfing. On a mechanistic scale, the body is a stacking of joints. If some of those joints can’t move, it will effect others, and effect your surfing. So long story short, keep an eye out some ankle health / mobility / rehab, over the coming weeks. #brokenbones#surferlife#frothlording#grajagan
The big blue 💙 Picture of @claudinhagoncalves by @jumartinss
In a rare moment; a wild penguin watches a human in awe.
Before going to Long Point my goal was to capture a penguin with a surfer on a wave. Somehow all the pieces of the puzzle came together and created one of my favorite photos that I've ever taken.